There's something magical about the freedom of the open road, especially when that road winds along some of the most spectacular coastlines in North America. My recent 11-day self-drive tour through Atlantic Canada was everything I hoped for and more – a perfect blend of breathtaking landscapes, rich maritime heritage, and charming coastal communities.
Day 1: Arriving in Halifax – The Gateway to Atlantic
Adventure
As my plane descended into Halifax, Nova Scotia, I could
already see glimpses of the sparkling Atlantic Ocean hugging the coastline.
After collecting my rental SUV (which would become my trusty companion for the
next 11 days), I made my way to the Hampton Inn by Hilton Halifax. Already
excited about the adventure ahead, I spent the evening strolling along the
historic Halifax waterfront, watching boats bob in the harbor as the sunset
painted the sky in vivid hues of orange and pink.
Day 2: South Shore Treasures – Peggy's Cove & Lunenburg
My first full day of driving took me along Nova Scotia's
stunning South Shore – and what a feast for the eyes it was! The coastal road
offered constant ocean views as I made my way to the iconic Peggy's Cove
Lighthouse. Standing on those massive granite rocks with the lighthouse
towering above and waves crashing below was simply spectacular.
The highlight of the day was definitely Lunenburg, with its colorful wooden buildings and rich shipbuilding history. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, this vibrant town perfectly preserves its maritime past. I spent hours wandering the streets, admiring the architecture, and enjoying freshly caught seafood at a waterfront restaurant. Mahone Bay's picture-perfect three churches reflecting in the calm waters were the perfect photo stop
before
heading back to Halifax.
Day 3: Halifax's Historic Heart
Today was dedicated to exploring Halifax itself. The Halifax
Citadel National Historic Site stands proudly on a hill overlooking the city,
and my visit coincided with the changing of the guard ceremony – complete with
kilts and bagpipes! The star-shaped fortress offers incredible views of the
harbor, and the interpretive center brought the city's military history to
life.
I spent the afternoon wandering along the vibrant waterfront boardwalk, visiting the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (where I learned about the city's connection to the Titanic disaster), and sampling local craft beers. Three nights in Halifax gave me the perfect introduction to Nova Scotian culture before hitting the road again.
Day 4: Northward to Baddeck – In Bell's Footsteps
The drive to Baddeck brought a noticeable shift in landscape
as urban areas gave way to more rural scenery. Located on the shores of the
beautiful Bras d'Or Lake, Baddeck is a charming village that serves as the
gateway to the Cabot Trail.
The Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site was
fascinating – I had no idea the telephone inventor had such deep connections to
this region. The museum houses an impressive collection of Bell's inventions
and personal effects. My accommodations at the Ceilidh Country Lodge provided
the perfect peaceful retreat after a day of driving and exploration.
Day 5: The Magnificent Cabot Trail
Today brought the driving experience I'd been most looking
forward to – the world-famous Cabot Trail. Often ranked among the world's most
scenic drives, this route winds through Cape Breton Highlands National Park
with jaw-dropping coastal vistas at every turn.
I found myself pulling over at nearly every lookout point, unable to resist capturing one spectacular view after another. The trail hugs cliffs that plunge dramatically into the sea, with hiking paths branching off that lead to hidden waterfalls and panoramic viewpoints. After a day of sensory overload (in the best possible way), I reached the cozy town of Antigonish for an overnight stay at the Coastal Inn.
Day 6: Ferry Adventures to Prince Edward Island
The morning brought a new adventure – a ferry crossing from
Caribou to Wood Islands on Prince Edward Island. There's something special
about approaching an island by water and watching Nova Scotia fade into the
distance as PEI gradually came into view was a highlight of my trip.
Once on the island, I followed the scenic Points East
Coastal Drive, winding through fishing villages with colorful boats and past
red sand beaches that seemed to glow in the afternoon sun. Charlottetown, PEI's
capital, welcomed me with its historic charm and vibrant atmosphere. Checking
into the Rodd Royalty hotel, I spent the evening exploring the city's downtown
core and sampling some of the island's famous seafood.
Day 7: Green Gables and Onward to New Brunswick
No visit to PEI would be complete without paying homage to
its most famous fictional resident – Anne of Green Gables. The Green Gables
Heritage Place was like stepping into the pages of Lucy Maud Montgomery's
beloved novel. The preserved, green-gabled house, Haunted Woods, and Lover's
Lane were exactly as I'd imagined from the books.
After soaking in the literary nostalgia, I continued along the Green Gables Shore Drive before crossing the impressive Confederation Bridge to New Brunswick. The 13-kilometer bridge is an engineering marvel and offered spectacular views of the Northumberland Strait. By evening, I had reached Moncton and settled into the Best Western Plus.
Day 8: Tidal Wonders at Hopewell Rocks
Today brought one of nature's most impressive shows – the
highest tides in the world at the Bay of Fundy. At Hopewell Rocks, I timed my
visit perfectly to experience both low and high tide. In the morning, I walked
on the ocean floor, exploring the base of the unique flowerpot rock formations.
Returning later in the day, those same rocks were now islands surrounded by
water that had risen over 40 feet!
The afternoon brought a lighter moment at Moncton's Magnetic Hill, where my car appeared to roll uphill against gravity – a quirky optical illusion that had me laughing at how easily our eyes can be deceived.
Day 9: Fundy National Park to Saint John
Continuing my journey along the Bay of Fundy, today's drive
took me through Fundy National Park, where forested hills meet dramatic
coastlines. The Fundy Parkway offered constant scenic viewpoints, with hiking
trails branching off to waterfalls hidden in the woods.
A highlight was stopping at St. Martins to explore the Sea Caves – massive arches carved by the powerful Fundy tides. At low tide, I walked right through these impressive natural formations, marveling at the red rock walls stained by minerals. By afternoon, I reached Saint John, New Brunswick's port city, checking into the Hampton Inn & Suites for a two-night stay.
Day 10: Whale Watching and Reversing Falls
My final full day of adventure started with an early morning
whale watching cruise from St. Andrews by the Sea. Within an hour on the water,
we spotted several minke whales, porpoises, and even a humpback that breached
spectacularly nearby. The knowledgeable guides shared fascinating information
about the bay's marine ecosystem and the conservation efforts to protect these
magnificent creatures.
In the afternoon, I witnessed another of Fundy's natural phenomena – the Reversing Falls in Saint John, where the powerful tides actually force the river to flow backward twice daily. Standing at the observation deck, I watched in amazement as the churning rapids completely changed direction as the tide shifted.
Day 11: Farewell to Atlantic Canada
As all good things must come to an end, I reluctantly
returned my rental car at Saint John Airport, my mind brimming with memories of
lighthouses, coastal vistas, charming towns, and maritime hospitality.
This self-drive tour offered the perfect balance of
structure and freedom – a well-planned route with the flexibility to linger at
places that captured my heart. From the iconic lighthouse at Peggy's Cove to
the dramatic Cabot Trail, from PEI's gentle landscapes to Fundy's powerful
tides, Atlantic Canada delivered natural beauty and cultural experiences in
abundance.
If you're considering a Canadian maritime adventure, I can't
recommend this self-drive tour highly enough. The combination of stunning
scenery, rich history, and the freedom to explore at your own pace makes for an
unforgettable journey through one of North America's most captivating regions.